Showing posts with label All Saints Church. Show all posts
Showing posts with label All Saints Church. Show all posts

Thursday, 8 October 2015

Hawton

All Saints Church
The All Saints Church dominates the village of Hawton.  The imposing tower photographed above can be seen for miles .... those are very tall mature trees but as you can see the tower clears them.  The tower was built by Sir Thomas Molyneux who lived in Hawton Manor House during the 15th century (the building has now gone but you can still see where it was located). You need a real head for heights to enjoy the view of the surrounding countryside from the top of the tower ....  but this is exactly where King Henry VII is supposed to have been during the Battle of East Stoke in 1487 as he watched the terrible bloodshed from this safe vantage point.  It wasn't a fear of heights that prevented another visitor going on to the roof a few years ago.  The lightning conductors needed to be checked but the rather overweight gentleman sent to carry out the task couldn't get through the narrow doorway.

All Saints Church
The top of the tower is surrounded by small shields, a number of which are blank, but the rest have been carved with various coats of arms for the influential families of the area. Some wealthy families have been associated with this village.  The Comptons and the Molyneux were followed by the Newdigates (of Newdigate House, Nottingham fame) then the Holden family.

Alexander Holden purchased the manor of Hawton from the Newdigates in 1717. On his death it passed to his son, Robert.  He died childless in 1808 so it passed to his cousin, Captain Robert Holden.  A few years earlier, in 1800, Captain Robert had asked for the hand of Mary Anne Drury in marriage.  Her father had somewhat reluctantly agreed to the match with the intention of prolonging the engagement.  The spirited bride had other ideas.  She climbed out of her bedroom window and the young couple eloped to Gretna Green.  They were married there on 30th August and then again, officially, at Spondon the following day. There are memorial plagues inside the church dedicated to the Holden family members.

West door
The stonework on Hawton Church is something to behold.  It is believed the Southwell Minster stonemasons came here to practise before going to Southwell and I can well believe it.  For such a tiny out of the way place the carvings are astonishing.

Sedilia
How many hours would it have taken to make this?  At the top are various saints being crowned by angels.  Then at the bottom left there is a pelican .... well, what the medieval stone masons thought a pelican looked like anyway!  The bird is pecking its breast because at that time they believed young pelicans were fed on the blood of the adult birds!  On the bottom right are two boys cutting grapes, one of whom is also combing his hair.  It is this sort of detail that can keep you staring at this wall for hours!  This carving is the top of the sedilia - a row of seats used by the priest and the deacons during the service.

Sedilia
On the opposite wall is the Easter Sepulchre:

Easter Sepulchre
The first time I had come across one of these was at Hawksworth and I thought that was special ... this one is something else again!! It is a complete work of art! At the bottom you can see four Roman soldiers all fast asleep in their armour.  They are totally individual in appearance.  In the centre is the recess where the Communion bread (The Host) would have been kept from Good Friday until Easter Sunday.  The best bit is the top where the eleven disciples plus Mary are watching Jesus ascend into Heaven ... there is a tiny carved foot print where he last stood but all that remains of him is the bottom of his robes disappearing above them. 

Easter Sepulchre
Like the Hawksworth Sepulchre this too only survived destruction by Cromwell's troops because it was covered over and hidden from view. It came to light again during the church restoration of 1843. Can you imagine the astonishment of the workers when the old white washed plaster fell away and this appeared? They made a plaster copy of the Easter Sepulchre for the Great Exhibition of 1851.

Easter Sepulchre & tomb
Next to the Sepulchre is the effigy of a knight.  It is believed to be the tomb of Robert de Compton who was responsible for building the chancel in 1320. His shield is facing the wall so the effigy has obviously been moved from its original resting place where the shield would have been in full view.  In the wall behind him there is a small peep hole through which someone sitting in the chapel behind the wall would have been able to see the altar.  Now this could have been used for theatrical purposes during the services .... a priest or deacon making an entrance on cue at a dramatic moment .... or,  there is a record of a hermit living in the chapel around 1330, perhaps he used it to take part in the service without being seen.

Carvings above the sedilia
The usual small heads decorate the outside walls.  There is a woman obviously suffering from tooth ache, she is being taunted by another figure next to her who is also holding his mouth but in a humorous fashion; there are heads of kings, a stonemason selfie and grotesque gargoyles and then some rather strange looking marks that turned out to be make-shift sundials .... a small hole into which a small stick can be placed to cast a shadow onto scratched lines or dots.  We found at least three of these.

Some of the carvings have been damaged over the centuries and, sadly, at least one of them has been removed. In The History of Nottinghamshire Thoroton wrote:

"I have seen many strange figures and forms without churches, originally intended to convey water from the roofs; some with horrid mouths, and many in the position of vomiting; but here is one too indelicate for either representation or description. It serves vulgar boys and men, the neighbourhood, to show women as a great curiosity, I am told, where the former fail not to laugh at the credulity of the latter."

Our interest piqued we searched for the offending figure but there was nothing that was too indelicate to describe ... shame!




















One door has a bullet hole from the Civil War and two odd handles that don't seem to do anything ... that is because they were the Sanctuary Handles.  You couldn't be arrested as long as you were holding on to one of them.

There have been a number of changes made to the building over the years: the roof has been raised and this door appears to have been added .....

Church alterations

.... they must have wanted that door REALLY badly! The windows are not decorated with stained glass but they are still beautiful because of the stonework:

The grand east window dating from around 1330

Inside All Saints Church
During the 17th century Hawton played a significant part in the English Civil War.  The Hawton Redoubt (a Scheduled Historical Monument) can be found in a field across the road from the church. The River Devon takes a right angled turn here so the field is protected on two sides:

Hawton Redoubt
This was also the site of the 15th century moated manor house of Sir Thomas Molyneux.  During the Civil War it made a perfect defensive position for Parliamentarian troops besieging the Royalists at Newark.  A gun platform at the north east corner of the redoubt overlooked the Hawton Newark road and the bridge over Middle Beck ensuring supplies or military help could not reach the town.

Hawton street view
The horses in the field next door appear to get more visitors than this important historical site, which is good news for Harriet Haivers, The Newark Saddler - a small company which specialises in restoring and fitting saddles.

Future Fishing is a fishing tackle supplier also based in the village.

This is all very different to a couple of hundred years ago when Hawton Mills was up and running and producing some of the finest quality linen in the whole country.  The village was considerably bigger in those days and Hawton Mill was a main source of employment.  Unfortunately there was no such thing as a minimum wage in those days.  The Poor Relief registers show that Hawton Mill workers were paid 8s a week but the mill owners then stopped them over 3s for their rent.  The parish paid them 2s so they had enough to live on.  I suppose the mill owners, being the ones who contributed to the Poor Relief Fund in the first place, felt quite justified.

Stables
The Mill itself was situated some distance outside the village of today.  It occupied a triangular meadow near the Queen's Sconce on the Farndon Road towards Newark and extending to the River Devon.  George Scales opened the works in 1793.  He knew he had a good supply of spring water for washing and bleaching the cloth, space for processing, good transport routes (the Trent Mersey Canal opened in 1777) and a market. Hawton Mill was made up of a warehouse, a cloth cellar, drying rooms, a row of workers' cottages known as Scale's Row, a yarn warehouse, stables, two houses (for George Scales and his son), an orchard garden and a boathouse on the River Devon. Nothing is left of the complex now except one cottage known as Orchard House yet at one time the mill was a hive of activity with deliveries of flax from farms in Yorkshire, enough spinners working to keep 100 weavers busy all day, the finishing team washing the cloth, laying it out in the meadows for 3 - 4 weeks and turning it to bleach in the sun then the packers preparing it for market.  It wasn't all plain sailing either.  The Scales brothers were involved in a lengthy bankruptcy case where they were owed money and the court had to decide which debts would be paid (the Scales lost out!) then in 1826 their main flax supplier, William Bamforth,  ended his partnership with them ... it was not an acrimonious split though as Bamforth's daughter married Thomas Scales, George's son, a few years later.  The business eventually folded in 1889.  

Hawton Redoubt & site of Hawton Manor House
 The spring water used at Hawton Mill for washing the linen had come from St Catherine's Well .... one of Nottinghamshire's Holy Wells.  The legend behind the spring was written down in 1816 by a Mr Dickinson: apparently a young woman from Newark. Isabel de Caldwell, had two suitors, Sir Guy Saucimer and Sir Everard Bevercotes. They sound like comedy names to me! Anyway the two men fought over Isabel on St Catherine's Eve and Sir Everard was killed.  The spring immediately appeared where his body had fallen.  Sir Guy escaped to foreign lands and unfortunately Isabel died of grief.  Some years later Sir Guy was struck down by leprosy and had a dream in which St Catherine told him to bathe in the spring water so he returned home.  The spring water cured him and he built a chapel to St Catherine next to the spring.

St Catherine's Well is still bubbling away today but it is in someone's back garden underneath a metal drain cover!


Newark Saddler .... local business
Today the friendly villagers were out in force preparing stunning flower displays around the church for their annual Flower Show.  They were obviously very busy but took time to not only let us inside but also to show us round. There were buckets of blooms all over the church floor and the air smelt heavenly. The local florists have had a very profitable day .... but good causes will benefit eventually. It was difficult to imagine the sights and smells of the place two hundred years ago, or even earlier, when the village had a much larger population, some of whom were desperately poor.

Map of Hawton: click here.

Friday, 7 August 2015

Syerston


Memorial window to Letitia Fillingham
 There were around 10 freemen, four villagers and five smallholders living in Sirestune in 1086 according to the Domesday Book.  Assuming these were all heads of families this would indicate a population of about 80 people.  The name means 'the farm belonging to Sigehere'.

By the early 1700s Syerston became the property of John Manners, 3rd Duke of Rutland. His son, Lord George Sutton, sold it to Lewis Disney Ffytche of Flintham in 1775.  At that time William Fillingham (1734 - 95) was employed by the Duke of Rutland so would have known the area well.  As enclosure commissioner he was earning 2 guineas a day.  By 1791, after investing money in the canals and property in Newark, Fillingham was in a position to buy the land without a mortgage. It cost £12,375 .... a huge sum for a humble yeoman.

Plans were drawn up for a large house and the enclosure of the land.  Unfortunately William only enjoyed his success for a few years ... he died in 1795.



William's son, George Fillingham (1774 - 1850) completed the building of Syerston Hall, enclosed the land and gained the friendship of the local gentry so leaving a bright future for his own son, George Fillingham.  Sadly he only survived his father by six years so his son ..... George Henry  Fillingham took over in 1856.

George Henry died suddenly in 1895 at the age of 53.  Apparently this was caused by heart disease aggravated by an accident ... he had suffered a broken thigh bone while out hunting with the South Notts Hunt some six weeks previously.  One story has it that he shot himself: this was "deemed to be an accident".  He had been married for only four years but they had a son ... George Fillingham!

Now, rather like the Earl of Emsworth in Wodehouse's Blandings Castle, the latter George Fillingham was a dedicated pig breeder.  According to the Berkshire Pig-breeders Club the Sally Lunn can be traced back to the 1934 breeding programme of George Fillingham of Syerston Hall.  He also bred the Syerston Royal Lustre with which he won first prize at the prestigious Royal Agricultural Show.

All Saints Church Syerston
The tower of All Saints Church dates back to the 13th century, some of the 14th century building survives and a restoration took place in 1896.  Inside the font dates back to the 14th century while the octagonal pulpit is dated 1636.  It is beautifully carved.  Around the building are various memorials to the Fillingham family between 1796 and 1877.  The stained glass window in memory of Letitia Fillingham was made by C E Kempe, a well known stained glass artist of the period.

Glass by Kempe

Kempe glass detail
Kempe glass detail









 




 Inside the church: the beautiful Royal Arms of King George III.

Arms of King George III
Outside the 18th century graffiti artists left their mark ...very neatly of course!


Graffiti on church door post
Montague House
Syerston sits on either side of the old Fosse Way. The church and village on one side with Syerston Hall on the other. This old road has recently been dualled, and redirected slightly near the village,  so there are now two roads between the heart of the village and Syerston Hall.  The Hall is a private residential property but it has been converted into apartments. There was a function in the grounds on the day we visited so we couldn't get near for a photograph.

Next to the Hall is the RAF Syerston Airbase.

RAF Syerston: home  of 644 Squadron - a Volunteer Gliding School
Today the RAF 644 Volunteer Gliding Squadron is based there but it was a Lancaster bomber base during the Second World War. 

In 1943 Flight Lieutenant William Reid of 61 Squadron took off from Syerston on a mission to bomb Dusseldorf.  On the way there his plane was attacked by a Messerschmitt Bf 110.  The cockpit and gun turret of Reid's plane were damaged and Reid was wounded in the head, chest and shoulders.  He said nothing of his injuries to his crew and continued with the mission.  A little later they were attacked again by a Focke-Wulf Fw 190.  The gunner in the damaged turret was so cold he could barely move his hands and so took some minutes to return fire on the enemy. Reid's navigator was killed in the attack and the wireless operator was fatally wounded; the flight engineer was hit and the tail of the Lancaster was seriously damaged.  Turning back was an option but Reid decided to continue on to Dussedorf.  They dropped the bombs on target and turned for home. He passed out over the Chanel but regained consciousness as the searchlights of RAF Shipdham in Norfolk came into view.  He successfully landed the plane although the undercarriage collapsed as they hit the runway.  Reid was awarded the Victoria Cross for his bravery.  He was 21 years old.

Just two weeks later the operational crews left Syerston and the base became known as the Lancaster Finishing School as it became a training base.

Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC was based at Syerston before moving to RAF Scampton in 1943 where he formed 617 Squadron ... The Dam Busters.  He was killed while returning from another raid in September 1944 (possibly as a result of 'friendly fire').  He had flown 107 raids.  He was 26 years old.

The Lancaster involved in a mid-air collision over Screveton took off from here in April 1944.

Pinfold
We came across yet another village Pinfold where, in olden times, the Pinder would keep stray animals to prevent them damaging crops.  The animal owners had to pay for them to be released.  At least one village resident today has another way of dealing with creatures he views as 'pests'.


Fillingham memorial

Map of Syerston; click here.


 Up date:  14th August 2015
In 1942 the large conservatory at the side of Eden Hall Spa (or Elston Towers) just outside Elston was badly damaged when a Lancaster bomber exploded at RAF Syerston:

The only reference to a bomber actually exploding there that I have come across involved a colleague of Wing Commander Guy Gibson (of Dam Buster fame).  He was on duty with Group Captain Gus Walker on 8th December 1942.  Walker noticed some incendiaries had fallen out of the bomb bay of a Lancaster which was situated near the main bomb dump.  Walker drove over and tried to move the devices using a rake.  The 4000 lb "cookie" bomb ignited inside the plane's bomb bay and Walker lost an arm in the explosion. I have not found any evidence that this particular explosion caused the damage though.